Fifty Seven Waterberg • Welgevonden • Waterberg • Limpopo • Luxury Travel Magazine

 

Welgevonden Wonders: A Big Five Safari in the Waterberg Biosphere in South Africa

• April 11, 2024
• Gillian Mclaren

The White rhinos of Africa are magnificent mammals, a treasured ‘big five’ sighting on safari. In an attempt to stop poaching - or at least to try to strongly discourage these criminals - many game parks in South Africa have resorted to cutting off the rhino horns. In the privately owned Welgevonden Game Reserve, in the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Waterberg, rhinos are carefully guarded and their horns are left to grow. As there is a healthy population, guests at Fifty Seven Waterberg are highly likely to have several sightings of these iconic African herbivores. It’s an unforgettable privilege to watch white rhinos for an extended time, to see their interactions with one another, plus with other species.

On a morning game drive, in an open-sided, customized SUV, we find a crash of rhinos at a natural rock pool in the tropical grassland. A mother with two youngsters is alert and watches two lionesses approaching the water. There is a stand off, then a young lioness starts to approach the female rhino. She snorts and stamps her feet. Of course the over-bold lioness moves off. When a male rhino approaches, the female permits him to come closer, but is wary.

We follow the lionesses as they are in hunting mode. Ignoring zebra and wildebeest, they mount a chase of a warthog family. In a cloud of dust, amidst much squealing, a lioness captures a juvenile warthog! She darts into nearby bushes, where we can no longer watch her.

The Waterberg biome, in the province of Limpopo, is unlike the often dry savanna of many of the other Game Reserves in South Africa. With a range of rugged mountains and wooded grasslands, this biosphere has a rich biodiversity of fauna with 50 mammal species, including aardvark and Brown hyena that are on the Red Data species list. In summer, migrating birds pass through the area, so it’s the perfect season for keen birders. There are over 300 bird species with specials like Cape Vulture and White-backed night heron, plus over 5500 species of plants, some scarce or threatened. The Welgevonden Game Reserve is also an important San Rock Art site in South Africa.

Four main rivers - Lephalala, Mokolo, Matlabas and Mogalakwena, named in the local Bapedi language - have carved deep valleys. The rivers split into numerous streams and rivulets, running over yellow and red hued rocky surfaces. We stop next to one of these lesser rivers to listen to the movement of the water, to enjoy the fresh ozone fragrance. We take in the beauty of the sedimentary rocks, plus the bare sandstone cliffs in the distance.

From our Luxury Suite - one of ten suites at Fifty Seven Waterberg - and from our private, solar heated plunge pool, we have a view over verdant bush, to the Waterberg mountains beyond. Elephants amble past us, treading silently. The open plan Luxury Suite has a king-sized bed, with lounge areas on either side, an indoor and outdoor shower, bath, double vanity and a dressing room, plus separate toilet. Floor to ceiling glass doors in front and at the sides can be opened up to create a perfect indoor-outdoor feel. We leave our curtains open at night, to watch the moonrise and the silver river of stars in the Milky Way.

Although there are indoor tables at the communal area of the lodge, we prefer alfresco dining, so choose to sit on the stilted wooden deck, under the stars. Sipping fine South African wine, we watch game coming to drink at the nearby waterhole, as hyena whoop in the distance and an African Scops-owl calls in a low, hollow, repetitive note, occasionally dueting with its mate. Several staff members are from the local Northern Sotho (Sepedi) tribe, who pamper us with excellent service and meals to remember. Baristas have been trained in the art of coffee making and they have fun with latte art in the froth. My first coffee of the day arrives with the design of an elephant head in the microfoam.

One evening, dinner is served in the Boma, lit up by lanterns and a roaring wood fire. Top quality meat is flamed on a braai - South African for barbecue - then served with local vegetable dishes. It’s an opportunity to chat to fellow guests, to sit together with them if you would like some extra conviviality. After a lively chat about our sightings, we select the romantic option of a private table.

Strolling around the lodge one morning, we spot 5 klipspringers, pretty antelope that are adapted to live on rocky slopes.  A multicoloured lizard basks on a warm rock surface. Alive with butterflies and flitting birds, it’s such a treat to explore this lush area, that one game drive a day suffices.

https://57waterberg.com/

Getting there

Welgevonden Game Reserve is a pleasant 3,5 hour drive, 250 km/124 miles northwest from Johannesburg, in a vehicle with high-clearance; or a 45 minute flight with a chartered airline to one of the airstrips.

Travel Tips

For the hot and rainy summer months of October to April, take cool clothes plus water resistant layers. In the cooler, dry winter months of May to September, pack warm layers, especially for cold evening game drives. Fifty Seven Waterberg spoils guests with a hot-water bottle on early morning game drives.

Welgevonden is malaria free.

Taken from: https://www.luxurytravelmagazine.com/news-articles/welgevonden-wonders-a-big-five-safari-in-the-waterberg-biosphere-in-south-africa

Constance Moofushi • Maldives • FAIRLADY

Coconut palms, banyan trees, fine coral sands and endless turquoise water – this is bucket list travel at its finest.   Who doesn’t dream of visiting the Maldives one day? This remote, sparsely populated tropical country is little more than a garland of 26 circular-shaped atolls, with 1192 low-lying islands. None of them are more than 1.8 metres above sea level, and only 185 are inhabited. Welcome to Constance Moofushi   There is only one resort per island, romantic with its dim lights, so the heavens are clear and constellations from both the Northern and Southern hemispheres are visible. Positioned south-west of India, this fragile environment is exquisitely beautiful; it’s the quintessential island fantasy. Dotted with coconut palms, mangroves and breadfruit trees, the islands are fringed by powdery white sand and translucent water. On the beach, hibiscus trees were in full bloom. In the early morning, the delicate flowers would be sunny yellow, and by late afternoon they’d have darkened to a burnt-orange shade before turning crimson and falling off. An exquisite flower with a lifespan of a single day.   I stayed at Constance Moofushi, situated on the South Ari Atoll – said to be one of the best diving and snorkelling spots in the world. The coral reef systems of the Indian Ocean teem with marine life, the water is a pleasant 29°C (so you only need a second skin, not a wetsuit), there are hardly any waves and visibility is clear up to 25 metres.  Enzo Spina, the owner of Bluetribe Moofushi Dive Centre at the resort, has lived on the island for decades. He persuaded me to try a diver propulsion vehicle to whiz past hundreds of sharks in the renowned Shark Pass. It’s a thrilling experience. To my amusement, I was named Top Gun Diver of the Day. Enzo videoed our dive, so I have a souvenir to post on my social media.     Dive right in!   During a more leisurely dive at Dega Thila, or Coral Garden, I was mesmerised by the diversity of corals and their extraordinary colour combinations. A hawksbill turtle manoeuvred itself out from under an overhang, a pair of Maldive anemonefish darted in and out of their host anemone (think Finding Nemo) and thousands of fingerlings shimmered past. Close encounters with gentle whale sharks and night dives with nurse sharks are moments I will never forget.   After my water activities, I sipped coconut water from a freshly cut coconut. This is perhaps the closest thing the Maldives has to a national drink, as alcohol is eschewed in the Muslim culture. (Although I am told that some islanders discreetly produce their own toddy, called ‘raa’, which is tapped from palm trees and left to ferment.) The Manta Bar is always open for a creative mocktail, cocktail or refreshing beer, and the open-air Totem Bar on the beach is a popular spot for a light lunch and cheerful music.   From the deck of my water villa on stilts, I watched black-tip reef sharks, trumpetfish, fusiliers and purple jellyfish swim past in the lagoon. If I felt like snorkelling, I didn’t need to go far! Spinner dolphins and Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins often gambolled near the wooden stairs leading from my private veranda, and I could swim alongside reef sharks, whiptail rays, shimmering schools of blue jackfish, and an impressive variety of iridescent reef fish. I could hear parrotfish biting off bits of coral; apparently they can change both their colour and gender.   After hours of gentle snorkelling, I visited the Constance Spa for a classic massage, where I was lulled to semi-sleep watching the movements of trumpetfish and fusiliers through the spa’s glass floor.     Nocturnal adventures During an evening stroll, I searched for scurrying ghost crabs, expertly camouflaged in the icing-sugar sand. By day, they dig into cool, moist burrows, but at night they scuttle out to feed on plankton washed out by the tide.   I spotted swift-footed rock crabs, also known as Sally Lightfoot crabs, that inhabit the rocky shores. A nocturnal land hermit crab (using an abandoned mollusc shell as its temporary home, until it outgrows it and has to find a bigger one) withdrew into its shell as I approached. When I stood still, the crab peeked out, then slowly extended its legs and gingerly continued on its way. Astoundingly, they can live up to 40 years.   Black-naped terns plunge-dove into the sea for fish, and a pair of white-breasted waterhen summoned their two fluffy chicks with loud, cackling calls from beneath the dense undergrowth of sea lettuce. A grey heron (or maakana) stood motionless beside the water, waiting to catch aquatic creatures. At dusk, it flew away with slow wingbeats.   Food, glorious food Dinner was served at a lamp-lit table beneath a beach calophyllum tree at Alizée Restaurant. The wine list features mainly South African wines, but I was feeling like experimenting. The Château Respide-Medeville Blanc 2018, an unusual French blend of 50% Sémillon, 48% Sauvignon Blanc and 2% Muscadelle, complemented the scallops. And with these surroundings, how could I not opt for fresh seafood at every opportunity? My main course was a delectable reef fish and, for dessert, I had three scoops of gelato – basil, lemongrass and coconut – paired with a New Zealand dessert wine, Two Rivers Altitude Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, which had notes of honey and passionfruit and was delicious.   All too soon, my stay at Constance Moofushi drew to a close. I am left with a rich trove of memories, a tick on my bucket list and a fervent hope that I’ll return one day. Getting there   Air Seychelles offers weekly flights from Johannesburg to the Maldives, via the Seychelles. It’s a pleasant nine-hour journey, faster than long-haul routes offered by other carriers. Written by Gillian McLaren   Taken from: https://m24magazines.evlink.net/public/messages/view-online/5aDU1yF8IPLrpKfn/b5vsYdud0Ju2XCjI/15bce618c05a5275

Constance Halaveli • Maldives • YourLuxury Africa

 

A PALETTE OF UNENDING BLUES

Private island elegance comes to a satisfying peak at Constance Halaveli in the Maldives.

ByGillian McLaren

From my stilted water villa at Constance Halaveli, I step down into the beryl-blue of the Indian Ocean. In shallow water, I snorkel with iridescent tropical fish, resting whiptail rays, blacktip reef sharks – harmless to humans – plus schools of Blue spotted trevally on the hunt.

Emerging from the saltwater, I rinse off under my outdoor shower, revelling in the sunshine, the view of aquamarine sky, seamlessly blends with the sea. With glass of champagne in hand, I step into my private plunge pool, anticipating one of the glorious sunsets that perfuse the heavens without fail here.

It could take ten minutes for a stroll around the island – barefoot in fine coral sands that encircle the resort – but I am distracted by nimble Sally Lightfoot crabs, scurrying Ghost crabs and a Land hermit crab that is moving into a new dwelling place; an empty seashell. A Variable Lizard scuttles up a coconut palm tree, while a White-breasted Waterhen loudly instructs her two grey chicks to settle into the undergrowth below a Beach Gardenia. Black-naped terns flying low over the water scrutinising for fingerlings or squid, begin to gather on an isolated spot  on the beach. As the moon casts a lambent light on the gently rippling water, I amble to Jing Restaurant and Bar, a fine dining space that curves out over the lagoon.

On the terrace, under a profusion of stars, I meet the Executive Chef who helps me to select from the Asian fusion à la carte menu. I can’t resist the Seared Saku Tuna with salmon roe and wasabi sesame; followed by today’s catch of Yellowfin tuna with soft shell crab and a sake broth. For my personalised wine pairing, the sommelier chooses from over 22,500 bottles sourced on many continents, introducing me to memorable varietals. With Valrhona Dark Chocolate Balloon and mascarpone mouse, I sip Two Rivers Altitude, a luscious dessert wine from New Zealand, of Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc. Violet lights under Jing’s balcony simulate bioluminescence, attracting sting rays and Whitetip reef sharks. I linger, mesmerised by the ambiance.

Set in the North Ari Atoll, TGI Divers Halaveli offer some of the best scuba diving in the Maldives. In a traditional Dhoni-style boat, we reach Bojamadi, a renowned site to swim with Reef Manta Rays. These gentle dancers queue at a cleaning station, patiently waiting their turn for the Bluestreak cleaner wrasse to nibble off any parasites, bacteria or dead skin. We fin pass Grey reef shark, a Hawksbill sea turtle and shoals of Great barracuda.

After a relaxed al fresco lunch from the at Jahaz Restaurant, I enjoy a Balinese massage at the Halaveli Spa. As the ergonomic bed is set on a patch of glass floor, I view sea-life below, including colourful parrotfish biting off bits of coral and a Blue spotted ray.  In a thrilling end to this equatorial idyll, I return to Malé in 25 minutes, on a seaplane that swoops low over a cobalt ocean, dotted with islands.

https://www.constancehotels.com/

Images by: Constance Hotels and Resorts and Gillian McLaren

Taken from: https://yourluxury.africa/travel/a-palette-of-unending-blues/

KuKaya • The Bushcamp Company • South Luangwa National Park • Zambia • Luxury Travel Magazine

 

Plentiful Game, Exclusivity and Flexibility: KuKaya, The Bushcamp Company, South Luangwa National Park, Zambia

• September 26, 2023
• Gillian Mclaren

In South Luangwa National Park It’s dusk, the hour between the butterfly and the moth.* With my personal guide and spotter, I am out in a private game vehicle, from KuKaya - the newest of The Bushcamp Company properties. No boot camp this, I have the freedom to choose my activities, plus at the times that suit me. In addition, a dedicated hostess is available to me anytime that I may need her for items in my villa, or at mealtimes. I am thriving on this flexible safari, tailored to my preferences. Each individual or group has the same exclusivity.

 

Image by Gillian McLaren

 

Image by Gillian McLaren

 

Image by Gillian McLaren

A pack of ten African wild dogs is trotting along the dust road, clearly on the hunt. Tailing them are nine Spotted hyenas, hoping to steal any prey that the painted wolves may find. It’s an unusual sighting. My guide drives carefully so the hunters are not disrupted. The dogs are usually diurnal, but they are taking advantage of the fast fading daylight, with a full moon to come. The pack is looking left and right, stopping occasionally to listen and to smell. Finding lion scat, they sniff it warily, as do the hyena, then continue their pursuit. Fascinating as this is, we leave them to their busy and determined running, so their hunt is not disturbed.

 

Image by Gillian McLaren

Next to a tributary of the South Luangwa River, we come across a lion pride, where a male is dominating a carcass. Stopping to take in the details, we hear a herd of buffalo approach the river channel. The lionesses swing into hunting mode to chase the bovids, but fail to kill. Eventually the lion permits the lionesses and youngsters to eat. A cub that approaches the water is almost taken by a crocodile! The lionesses rush to assist the cub and there is a stand off between them and the crocodile. On the journey back to KuKaya, our tracker scans the bush, picking up the reflection in the eyes of a Large-spotted genet, a Bushy-tailed mongoose, African civet, and - to my joy - a hunting Vereaux’s eagle owl. A tiny elephant screw scuttles across the sand road. The following morning we return to the site of the kill, where Lappet-faced vulture squabble and skirmish over remains of the carcass.

 

Image by Gillian McLaren

 

Image by Gillian McLaren

Remote and isolated by the Muchinga Escarpment on the west and northwest, and the Luangwa River to the east, South Luangwa National Park covers 3495 square miles of spectacular topography. This unique biome harbours an abundance of wildlife. Except for rhino, big game abounds and multiple sightings are likely. As KuKaya is sited 2,5 km from the main gate of South Luangwa National Park, many vehicles use the main road at opening and closing times. Guides at KuKaya are sensitive to this, so tend to take lesser known routes during these peak times, only traversing the main road if a special sighting is called in.

 

Image by Gillian McLaren

 

Image by Gillian McLaren

 

Image by Gillian McLaren

For my walking safari from KuKaya, an armed guard from the National Park joins my guide. Walking at a leisurely pace, in single file, we pass curious Thornicroft giraffe and Crawshay’s zebra An elephant bull is peacefully grasping grass tufts in his trunk, then shaking them to get rid of sand before he eats them. As we reach a dry river bed, five aged buffalos run away from us, kicking up the dust behind them. Walking is the perfect opportunity for me to learn how to recognise animals by their tracks and their dung, to identify spiders by their webs and to learn about the trees. Each time we find something interesting, like the skull of a hippo, we stop to investigate. I sit on the exposed roots of a Zambezi fig tree, where I am served tea and freshly baked cookies.

 

Image by Gillian McLaren

 

Image by Gillian McLaren

 

Image by Gillian McLaren

At KuKaya, each of the six thatched villas - five with two rooms and one with a single room - has a fine view of permanent waterholes in an oxbow lagoon. Both rooms have an en-suite indoors bathroom, plus an outdoor shower. Between the rooms is a cosy indoor dining area and lounge with armchairs. From the raised deck of my villa - with its outdoor dining area, private plunge pool, comfortable armchairs and a fire pit below - I observe troops of Yellow baboons going about their daily activities. Crawshay’s zebra trot to the water, elephant bulls and small breeding herds of elephants rest after a long drink or a bath. An array of birdlife visits the area. Sausage trees, Natal mahogany and Africa ebony line the bank in front of the villas, casting cooling shadows where Vervet monkeys forage and play. Yellow baboons cavort in the canopies.

 

Image by The Bushcamp Company

 

Image by Gillian McLaren Crawshay’s zebra

 

Image by Gillian McLaren Yellow baboon

During the lazy afternoons I sit in the hide, constructed at water level, to watch birds. I’m delighted to add Eastern nicator and White-crowned lapwing to my ‘lifer’ bird list. Back in my villa, I try to read, but am lulled by the warm breeze thorough the mesh sides of my tent and the comfort of my bed, into a soporific state. As arranged, my hostess wakes me to present high tea on my deck, with freshly baked savoury and sweet choices.

 

Image by Gillian McLaren White-fronted bee-eater

 

Image by Gillian McLaren Saddle-billed stork

 

Image by Gillian McLaren

Meals are served alfresco in the communal boma area, where I choose to sit alone, to enjoy the tranquility and the activity at the waterhole. Should guests wish to join one another for some conviviality, tables are arranged for dining together. Tables can be set in a variety of picturesque settings, including on my Villa deck, or secluded in the bush. Zambian and international dishes are conjured up using locally sourced fresh produce. A well stocked bar, set up under a tree in the boma, sports a selection of hard liquor and fine South African wines.

 

Image by The Bushcamp Company

 

Image by The Bushcamp Company

 

Image by The Bushcamp Company

The Luangwa River reflects lambent light during sunset, illuminating a pod of hippo. An orange moonrise is transformed to yellow then pale silver.

 

Image by Gillian McLaren

*Yasmina Khadra

https://bushcampcompany.com/KuKaya/

For more features by Gillian McLaren: www.gillianmclaren.blogspot.com

Getting There

From Oliver Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg, Proflight Zambia  offers a two hour flight to Kenneth Kaunda International Airport. The Bombardier CRJ 100/200 is comfortable, with ample leg room, overhead stowage and space below the seat to store my backpack with cameras. A light, cold in-flight meal is served, with a choice of fruit juice, coffee, tea, water or beer. All food is halal.

From Lusaka to the small Mfuwe International Airport is a pleasant 1hour 30 minute flight with Proflight Zambia. Snacks and soft drinks are available. The Bushcamp Company provides pickup and transport from Mfuwe International Airport, (which is also is easily accessible from the Lower Zambezi) in a 45 minute drive to KuKaya. The journey in an open game vehicle, through Mfuwe village and the rural area, provides an opportunity to view a slice of local life, before entering the South Luangwa National Park. Have your binoculars ready, as the game viewing and bird watching begins on the transfer.

Proflight Zambia sends email or sms messages to passengers the day before each flight, so check-in and seat selection can be done online.

https://proflight-zambia.com/

The Urban Lusaka

 

Image by Gillian McLaren

For an overnight stay in Lusaka, during your trip to Zambia, consider the chic The Urban Lusaka. This sophisticated hotel is sited in the pretty diplomatic area, 30 minutes from Kenneth Kaunda International Airport, within walking distance from two shopping centres. Minimalist rooms with a shower - in pencil-carbon black, charcoal and white hues - have views of the cityscape. A buffet breakfast is included. A la carte dinner includes vegetarian options. I savour the renowned Zambia Beef. The in-house bar is a festive space, to meet fellow guests if you would like a congenial evening.

 

Image by Gillian McLaren

https://theurbanhotellusaka/

Text by Gillian McLaren

Images by Gillian McLaren and The Bushcamp Company

 Taken from: https://www.luxurytravelmagazine.com/news-articles/kukaya-the-bushcamp-company-south-luangwa-national-park-zambia