Coconut palms, banyan trees, fine coral sands and endless turquoise water – this is bucket list travel at its finest. Welcome to Constance Moofushi
Dive right in!
Nocturnal adventures
Food, glorious food
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Gillian Mclaren Travel and Science Writer
Wednesday, March 27, 2024
Constance Moofushi • Maldives • FAIRLADY
Monday, February 5, 2024
Constance Halaveli • Maldives • YourLuxury Africa
A PALETTE OF UNENDING BLUES
Private island elegance comes to a satisfying peak at Constance Halaveli in the Maldives.
From my stilted water villa at Constance Halaveli, I step down into the beryl-blue of the Indian Ocean. In shallow water, I snorkel with iridescent tropical fish, resting whiptail rays, blacktip reef sharks – harmless to humans – plus schools of Blue spotted trevally on the hunt.
Emerging from the saltwater, I rinse off under my outdoor shower, revelling in the sunshine, the view of aquamarine sky, seamlessly blends with the sea. With glass of champagne in hand, I step into my private plunge pool, anticipating one of the glorious sunsets that perfuse the heavens without fail here.
It could take ten minutes for a stroll around the island – barefoot in fine coral sands that encircle the resort – but I am distracted by nimble Sally Lightfoot crabs, scurrying Ghost crabs and a Land hermit crab that is moving into a new dwelling place; an empty seashell. A Variable Lizard scuttles up a coconut palm tree, while a White-breasted Waterhen loudly instructs her two grey chicks to settle into the undergrowth below a Beach Gardenia. Black-naped terns flying low over the water scrutinising for fingerlings or squid, begin to gather on an isolated spot on the beach. As the moon casts a lambent light on the gently rippling water, I amble to Jing Restaurant and Bar, a fine dining space that curves out over the lagoon.
On the terrace, under a profusion of stars, I meet the Executive Chef who helps me to select from the Asian fusion à la carte menu. I can’t resist the Seared Saku Tuna with salmon roe and wasabi sesame; followed by today’s catch of Yellowfin tuna with soft shell crab and a sake broth. For my personalised wine pairing, the sommelier chooses from over 22,500 bottles sourced on many continents, introducing me to memorable varietals. With Valrhona Dark Chocolate Balloon and mascarpone mouse, I sip Two Rivers Altitude, a luscious dessert wine from New Zealand, of Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc. Violet lights under Jing’s balcony simulate bioluminescence, attracting sting rays and Whitetip reef sharks. I linger, mesmerised by the ambiance.
Set in the North Ari Atoll, TGI Divers Halaveli offer some of the best scuba diving in the Maldives. In a traditional Dhoni-style boat, we reach Bojamadi, a renowned site to swim with Reef Manta Rays. These gentle dancers queue at a cleaning station, patiently waiting their turn for the Bluestreak cleaner wrasse to nibble off any parasites, bacteria or dead skin. We fin pass Grey reef shark, a Hawksbill sea turtle and shoals of Great barracuda.
After a relaxed al fresco lunch from the at Jahaz Restaurant, I enjoy a Balinese massage at the Halaveli Spa. As the ergonomic bed is set on a patch of glass floor, I view sea-life below, including colourful parrotfish biting off bits of coral and a Blue spotted ray. In a thrilling end to this equatorial idyll, I return to Malé in 25 minutes, on a seaplane that swoops low over a cobalt ocean, dotted with islands.
https://www.constancehotels.com/
Images by: Constance Hotels and Resorts and Gillian McLaren
Taken from: https://yourluxury.africa/travel/a-palette-of-unending-blues/
Friday, September 29, 2023
KuKaya • The Bushcamp Company • South Luangwa National Park • Zambia • Luxury Travel Magazine
Plentiful Game, Exclusivity and Flexibility: KuKaya, The Bushcamp Company, South Luangwa National Park, Zambia
- September 26, 2023
- Gillian Mclaren
In South Luangwa National Park It’s dusk, the hour between the butterfly and the moth.* With my personal guide and spotter, I am out in a private game vehicle, from KuKaya - the newest of The Bushcamp Company properties. No boot camp this, I have the freedom to choose my activities, plus at the times that suit me. In addition, a dedicated hostess is available to me anytime that I may need her for items in my villa, or at mealtimes. I am thriving on this flexible safari, tailored to my preferences. Each individual or group has the same exclusivity.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Gillian McLaren
A pack of ten African wild dogs is trotting along the dust road, clearly on the hunt. Tailing them are nine Spotted hyenas, hoping to steal any prey that the painted wolves may find. It’s an unusual sighting. My guide drives carefully so the hunters are not disrupted. The dogs are usually diurnal, but they are taking advantage of the fast fading daylight, with a full moon to come. The pack is looking left and right, stopping occasionally to listen and to smell. Finding lion scat, they sniff it warily, as do the hyena, then continue their pursuit. Fascinating as this is, we leave them to their busy and determined running, so their hunt is not disturbed.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Next to a tributary of the South Luangwa River, we come across a lion pride, where a male is dominating a carcass. Stopping to take in the details, we hear a herd of buffalo approach the river channel. The lionesses swing into hunting mode to chase the bovids, but fail to kill. Eventually the lion permits the lionesses and youngsters to eat. A cub that approaches the water is almost taken by a crocodile! The lionesses rush to assist the cub and there is a stand off between them and the crocodile. On the journey back to KuKaya, our tracker scans the bush, picking up the reflection in the eyes of a Large-spotted genet, a Bushy-tailed mongoose, African civet, and - to my joy - a hunting Vereaux’s eagle owl. A tiny elephant screw scuttles across the sand road. The following morning we return to the site of the kill, where Lappet-faced vulture squabble and skirmish over remains of the carcass.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Gillian McLaren
Remote and isolated by the Muchinga Escarpment on the west and northwest, and the Luangwa River to the east, South Luangwa National Park covers 3495 square miles of spectacular topography. This unique biome harbours an abundance of wildlife. Except for rhino, big game abounds and multiple sightings are likely. As KuKaya is sited 2,5 km from the main gate of South Luangwa National Park, many vehicles use the main road at opening and closing times. Guides at KuKaya are sensitive to this, so tend to take lesser known routes during these peak times, only traversing the main road if a special sighting is called in.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Gillian McLaren
For my walking safari from KuKaya, an armed guard from the National Park joins my guide. Walking at a leisurely pace, in single file, we pass curious Thornicroft giraffe and Crawshay’s zebra An elephant bull is peacefully grasping grass tufts in his trunk, then shaking them to get rid of sand before he eats them. As we reach a dry river bed, five aged buffalos run away from us, kicking up the dust behind them. Walking is the perfect opportunity for me to learn how to recognise animals by their tracks and their dung, to identify spiders by their webs and to learn about the trees. Each time we find something interesting, like the skull of a hippo, we stop to investigate. I sit on the exposed roots of a Zambezi fig tree, where I am served tea and freshly baked cookies.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Gillian McLaren
At KuKaya, each of the six thatched villas - five with two rooms and one with a single room - has a fine view of permanent waterholes in an oxbow lagoon. Both rooms have an en-suite indoors bathroom, plus an outdoor shower. Between the rooms is a cosy indoor dining area and lounge with armchairs. From the raised deck of my villa - with its outdoor dining area, private plunge pool, comfortable armchairs and a fire pit below - I observe troops of Yellow baboons going about their daily activities. Crawshay’s zebra trot to the water, elephant bulls and small breeding herds of elephants rest after a long drink or a bath. An array of birdlife visits the area. Sausage trees, Natal mahogany and Africa ebony line the bank in front of the villas, casting cooling shadows where Vervet monkeys forage and play. Yellow baboons cavort in the canopies.
Image by The Bushcamp Company
Image by Gillian McLaren Crawshay’s zebra
Image by Gillian McLaren Yellow baboon
During the lazy afternoons I sit in the hide, constructed at water level, to watch birds. I’m delighted to add Eastern nicator and White-crowned lapwing to my ‘lifer’ bird list. Back in my villa, I try to read, but am lulled by the warm breeze thorough the mesh sides of my tent and the comfort of my bed, into a soporific state. As arranged, my hostess wakes me to present high tea on my deck, with freshly baked savoury and sweet choices.
Image by Gillian McLaren White-fronted bee-eater
Image by Gillian McLaren Saddle-billed stork
Image by Gillian McLaren
Meals are served alfresco in the communal boma area, where I choose to sit alone, to enjoy the tranquility and the activity at the waterhole. Should guests wish to join one another for some conviviality, tables are arranged for dining together. Tables can be set in a variety of picturesque settings, including on my Villa deck, or secluded in the bush. Zambian and international dishes are conjured up using locally sourced fresh produce. A well stocked bar, set up under a tree in the boma, sports a selection of hard liquor and fine South African wines.
Image by The Bushcamp Company
Image by The Bushcamp Company
Image by The Bushcamp Company
The Luangwa River reflects lambent light during sunset, illuminating a pod of hippo. An orange moonrise is transformed to yellow then pale silver.
Image by Gillian McLaren
*Yasmina Khadra
https://bushcampcompany.com/KuKaya/
For more features by Gillian McLaren: www.gillianmclaren.blogspot.com
Getting There
From Oliver Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg, Proflight Zambia offers a two hour flight to Kenneth Kaunda International Airport. The Bombardier CRJ 100/200 is comfortable, with ample leg room, overhead stowage and space below the seat to store my backpack with cameras. A light, cold in-flight meal is served, with a choice of fruit juice, coffee, tea, water or beer. All food is halal.
From Lusaka to the small Mfuwe International Airport is a pleasant 1hour 30 minute flight with Proflight Zambia. Snacks and soft drinks are available. The Bushcamp Company provides pickup and transport from Mfuwe International Airport, (which is also is easily accessible from the Lower Zambezi) in a 45 minute drive to KuKaya. The journey in an open game vehicle, through Mfuwe village and the rural area, provides an opportunity to view a slice of local life, before entering the South Luangwa National Park. Have your binoculars ready, as the game viewing and bird watching begins on the transfer.
Proflight Zambia sends email or sms messages to passengers the day before each flight, so check-in and seat selection can be done online.
The Urban Lusaka
Image by Gillian McLaren
For an overnight stay in Lusaka, during your trip to Zambia, consider the chic The Urban Lusaka. This sophisticated hotel is sited in the pretty diplomatic area, 30 minutes from Kenneth Kaunda International Airport, within walking distance from two shopping centres. Minimalist rooms with a shower - in pencil-carbon black, charcoal and white hues - have views of the cityscape. A buffet breakfast is included. A la carte dinner includes vegetarian options. I savour the renowned Zambia Beef. The in-house bar is a festive space, to meet fellow guests if you would like a congenial evening.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Text by Gillian McLaren
Images by Gillian McLaren and The Bushcamp Company
Taken from: https://www.luxurytravelmagazine.com/news-articles/kukaya-the-bushcamp-company-south-luangwa-national-park-zambia
Tuesday, September 26, 2023
Anabezi Camp • Lower Zambezi National Park • Zambia • Luxury Travel Magazine
A Traditional Safari, Remote and Game Rich: Anabezi Camp, Lower Zambezi National Park, Zambia
- September 21, 2023
- Gillian Mclaren
The Zambezi River in Zambia draws an abundance of game and birds, making for exceptionally good safari sightings and spectacular sunset reflections. In the water, vast numbers of hippos submerge and resurface with plumes of spray jetting from their nostrils. Their loud honking, snorting and wheezing is a characteristic sound of the wild. On cooler days and at night, the hippos graze on the grassy banks, revealing their stubby legs and ponderous bodies. As lagoons and channels dry up, Nile crocodiles walk to the main river, to find new territory and to bask on the sand banks.
Image by Rachel Rebibo
During adventurous canoeing expeditions and a leisurely cruise along the perennial Zambezi River, I drift past elephants as they drink and bathe, shaggy-coated waterbuck, sizeable herds of impala and a profusion of water birds in the Phragmites reeds. I just miss the lions that were padding on the riverbank near to the camp.
Image by Rachel Rebibo
Anabezi Camp has the perfect location to explore this remote wilderness. Set on the banks of the Zambezi River, surrounded by Winterthorn (or Ana) Forest, each of the twelve tented suites - with raised timber decks - has a splendid view over a flat alluvial plain. Outside my suite, a solitary elephant bull visits me daily, to browse on a Winterthorn tree. He stretches his trunk up as high as he can, to strip off remaining branches. Pushing on the rough bark of the Winterthorn’s trunk, he manages to dislodge curled, twisted seedpods that tumble down to his padded feet. We watch each other as I cool off in my private plunge pool, then laze on a sun lounger. When this mature male lumbers off, I am entertained by African sacred ibis as they dig their scythe-shaped beaks into muddy pools, searching for worms and frogs. Black-headed heron stand mime-artist still, waiting for fish. Bush music includes the resoundingly clear call of the African fish eagle. After lingering in my outdoor shower, set under the canopy of a Rain tree, I stroll to the Zambezi Deck for lunch.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Rachel Rebibo
An elevated walkway joins the tented suites to the two communal areas that each have a dining deck, lounge, bar and a swimming pool. The Mushika Deck, with views of the Mushika River flood plain, is ideal for families with children. As the tents are set far apart for maximum privacy and quietude, the walk gives an opportunity to observe family interactions between Yellow baboons, warthogs foraging on their knees and shy impala. Squirrels dash along the walkway, as lizards soak up rays of sunlight.
Image by Rachel Rebibo
Image by Rachel Rebibo
Image by Gillian McLaren
Delicious bush cuisine, a fusion of African and European elements, is prepared with fresh ingredients for lunch and dinner. Much of the produce is sourced from Zambezi Harvest, Anabezi Camp’s community agriculture project up the river in the Chiawa Game Management Area. A fine selection of premium South African wines is available and a barman whips up cocktails. In addition, a fresh cake is baked daily in time for a splendid high tea. Talk about pampering!
The entire camp has an atmosphere of tranquil, unpretentious luxury. With suites, communal areas and the wide walkway being on the same level, Anabezi Camp is well suited to guests in their wheelchairs. Staff are consistently kind and attentive, yet unobtrusive, so would give joyful assistance to disabled guests when needed. Hospitality par excellence ensures that guests are content and have their personal preferences considered.
Image by Gillian McLaren
The high concentration of leopards, aided by the open ground of the Winterthorn Forest, makes it highly likely to have multiple sightings of these lithe cats. The predator population is so dense, that jackals are not found in the area. Up in the early morning, after a fortifying coffee and light breakfast, we head out into the wilds in an open-sided game vehicle. After four days of finding leopard on every excursion, I begin to recognise individuals by their distinctive behaviour and unique features. I looks forward to discovering more details about their lives lives and will ask my guide for for updates once I leave. As one young leopard has given birth, there is eager anticipation for a glimpse of the cub when the mother moves it to a new den site.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Gillian McLaren
An unusually large pack of 45 endangered African wild dogs has recently split up. The remaining 23 painted wolves are denning near to Anabezi Camp, so speculation is rife about when the alpha female will reveal her pups. It’s adrenalising to follow these carnivores as they hunt, then - exhausted from the chase - they flop down near to one another to refresh their stamina.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Rachel Rebibo
Image by Gillian McLaren
After each game drive I am met by a hostess, who hands me an iced face towel and shows a keen interest in my experiences in the wild. I savor the time to linger in my suite. After a leisurely bath with scented salts - in my indoor bathroom - I relax in the well-appointed lounge area, to peruse a coffee table book on Zambia and to re-live the day’s action through my photographs. Floor to ceiling gauze in the front of my casually elegant tent ensure clear views of the flood plain and Zambezi River.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Image by Rachel Rebibo
Anabezi Camp is unfenced, which means that any big game can enter the area and it does! When I am escorted back to my suite after yet another delectable dinner, I look out for small nocturnal creatures like Large spotted genet, or perhaps an African civet. The milky way is a bridal canopy over the escarpment in the distance. A night symphony includes the unmistakeable call of Verreaux’s eagle-owl, with its deep nasal notes. Crickets and cicadas buzz, a young baboon screeches with indignation - probably being disciplined by its mother - hippos vocalise in a broad spectrum of frequencies, with raucous grumbles, grunts and bellows.
Image by Gillian McLaren
For more features by Gillian McLaren: http://www.gillianmclaren.blogspot.com
Getting There
From Oliver Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg, Proflight Zambia offers a two hour flight to Kenneth Kaunda International Airport in Lusaka. The Bombardier CRJ 100/200 is comfortable, with ample leg room, overhead stowage and space below the seat to store my backpack with cameras. A light, cold in-flight meal is served, with a choice of fruit juice, coffee, tea, water or beer. All food is halal.
From Lusaka to Jeki Airstrip is a pleasant 35 minute flight with Proflight Zambia. Snacks and soft drinks are provided. The flight over the Zambezi River is breathtaking in its beauty! Anabezi Camp provides pickup and transport from Jeki Airstrip. As the journey is in an open game vehicle, I have my binoculars ready, as the game viewing and bird watching begins on the transfer.
The Urban Lusaka
Image by Gillian McLaren
For an overnight stay in Lusaka, during your trip to Zambia, I recommend The Urban Lusaka. This sophisticated hotel is sited in the pretty diplomatic area, 30 minutes from Kenneth Kaunda International Airport, within walking distance from two shopping centers. Minimalist rooms with a shower - in pencil-carbon black, charcoal and white hues - have views of the cityscape. A buffet breakfast is included. A la carte dinner includes vegetarian options. I savor the renowned Zambia Beef. The in-house bar is a chic, festive space, to meet fellow guests if you would like a convivial evening.
Image by Gillian McLaren
https://theurbanhotelgroup.com/lusaka_home
Text by Gillian McLaren (@Jetset_Gillian)
Images by Rachel Rebibo (@rachelrebibo) and Gillian McLaren
Taken from: https://www.luxurytravelmagazine.com/news-articles/a-traditional-safari-remote-and-game-rich-anabezi-camp